with our wine correspondent Cormac Power, proprietor of The Fat Angel Restaurant, Cathedral Square, Waterford
THIS is the land where loving both Italy and Pinot Noir is possible. Often thought of as a lavish French indulgence, that can be very disappointing at times; you can now enjoy the fruits of Pinot Noir Italian style. Produced in small quantities, Pinot Nero is mostly planted in the north ranging from Oltrepò Pavese to Veneto. Like France Pinot Nero here is made to produce sparkling wines, mainly in the form of full sparkling styles known as spumante, but also in the premium Italian region of Franciacorta. It is not a new revelation rather a renaissance of the old ways dating back to the mid-1800s. So what separates the Italian style from the rest: fruit and freshness. No need for aging in damp cellars pushing up mushrooms either; Pinot Nero can be enjoyed young displaying all the red fruits of the forest. Like everywhere else in the world Pinot Nero can be a blessing and a curse and is difficult to grow and is unpredictable to say the least. However, there is something ancient about Pinot Noir that always reminds me of the purest form of wine drinking.
Wine of the Week:
Ca’ di Alte, Pinot Nero Veneto Italy: This light, fruity and perfumed Pinot Nero puts many a Burgundy to shame. With perfumes of cherries, strawberries and violets, it has an attractive bitter twist and a touch of sour cherry on the finish.