with our wine correspondent Cormac Power, proprietor of The Fat Angel Restaurant, Cathedral Square, Waterford
TO some the term ‘crus bourgeois’ on a bottle of Bordeaux is just another fancy name on the label to help confuse us even more. What does this term mean and does it guarantee anything about the wine. Bordeaux is awash with wine classifications and hierarchal nonsense, but it is big business and needs to be taken somewhat seriously.
The cru bourgeois has been particularly contentious in recent years as some Chateau drop down, while others earn promotion. Such moves to a winery are significant and life changing and that is why they need to be taken seriously. To the customer it is probably the quickest route to quality from Bordeaux.
‘To some the term ‘crus bourgeois’ on a bottle of Bordeaux is just another fancy name on the label to help confuse us even more.’
Wines in this category are blind tasted every year so it is fair and current. However, even as we speak there is change afoot in a further attempt to improve the credibility of the crus bourgeois. There is now an independent panel tasting a range of five vintages from each producer in order to decide which estates may call themselves crus bourgeois for five years from the announcement of the new classification. The plan is for this process to be repeated in 2024.
Also being considered now is sustainability and tourism friendly, something a lot of Bordelaise are curling their noses to. What a sight!
Wine of the Week:
Chateau Cissac Crus Bourgeois Medoc Bordeaux: Chateau Cissac delivers great sophistication at an everyday drinking level. From the flashy 2015 vintage, this red is packed full of dark ripe fruit, backed up by plenty of spice and wood smoke. The tannins are firm but ripe, which makes it drinkable now but means it will also mature well if left in the cellar for a few years.