with our wine correspondent Cormac Power, proprietor of The Fat Angel Restaurant, Cathedral Square, Waterford
THE ‘modern style’ is a phrase we hear a lot these days to describe wine. It is true that modern winemaking has lifted the bar to an extent that there are very few wines out there that are not drinkable.
Modern wines are clean and crisp with a refreshing acidity. Have we gone too far with our acidic obsession, especially with our white wines? Grape variety will tell you a lot about the acidity in wine, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino and Riesling all have naturally high levels.
As refreshing acidity is a desirable and sellable trait in a wine, a lot of winemakers have started to produce traditionally low acid wines like Chardonnay with a good hit of refreshing acidity. Trying to avoid it is difficult, so much so that when you do find a wine with low acidity it can take some adjusting. Low acidity wines tend to be more laid back and delicate which tend to pair best with simple uncomplicated foods; not everything needs to be fantastic.
Of course acidity is present in red wines but it is the omnipresent citric acid that is all too prevalent in most of the modern white wines of today, and it’s not always pleasant. Balance is key, as the right amount of sweetness in a wine can mask harsh, acidic flavours.
Wine of the Week
Cantina Mesa ‘Vermentino’ Sardinia Italy: This wine is clear, pale straw in colour. The bouquet is both intense and delicate, with emphatic fragrances of citrus and bergamot, floral essences of roses, and pungent rosemary. The palate is crisp, dry and savoury, with a lovely delicacy and a finesse that continues throughout the long finish.