with our wine correspondent Cormac Power, proprietor of The Fat Angel Restaurant, Cathedral Square, Waterford
NOT so long ago the Spanish stars of Albarino and Godello seemed a long way away, now they sit very comfortably on our dining tables. Like in any traded commodity some wines become hot while some wines blow cold, and all in the name of fashion. Two wines that have found themselves back from the 1980’s are the slightly spritzy Vinho Verde from Portugal and the even spritzier Italian Lambrusco. Having tasted new arrivals of each recently there is a bit more than a nostalgic appeal.
Lambrusco is made in the Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, to the south of Veneto. Anyone familiar with this region will know how important food is and this red sparkling wine is an unlikely but a must try with prosciutto and other cured meats. There is something wild and untamed about Lambrusco as it displays wild fruits and herbs.
Vinho Verde, the green wine, is on the other side of the spectrum. A very fresh wine that goes well with lighter style dishes such as salads and shellfish. Large investments are being made in this style of wine with both producers buying land in Alentejo and importers putting Vinho Verde on their list. There is a real shift of attitude here with a heavy emphasis on quality and a shift into organic production also. Whether you are a follower of fashion or not, we will be seeing a lot more of these wines in the future.
Wine of The Week
Villa Cialdini, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro: A traditional dry Lambrusco, with fresh, pronounced and typical cherry aromas. On the palate the wine is delicate, tangy and well-balanced, with pleasant refreshing acidity, floral notes and forest fruits on the finish.